The food of La Ribera

Savouring the Ribera of Navarre from Fustiñana

The Ribera of Navarre is rightly proud of its market-gardening tradition. Watered by the River Ebro, this fertile land produces some of the most prized vegetables in Spanish cooking, as well as top-quality meat and D.O. Navarra wines. Fustiñana, the house's village, lies within the area protected by the IGP Alcachofa de Tudela.

The jewels of La Ribera's market gardens

Depending on the time of year you visit, you'll be able to enjoy freshly harvested produce from the local market gardens:

• Alcachofa de Tudela (I.G.P.): the Tudela artichoke, queen of spring, from the Blanca de Tudela variety, in season until early June. The IGP covers 33 municipalities in La Ribera, Fustiñana included. Tender and with no fuzzy choke, it's served fried, stewed or roasted.
• Cogollos de Tudela: small, tight and flavourful lettuce hearts, usually served with fried garlic, anchovies or bonito tuna. They don't hold an IGP or DOP, but they're hugely popular.
• Espárrago de Navarra (I.G.P.): white, plump asparagus with just the right touch of bitterness. In season (roughly April to June) you'll find it fresh.
• Menestra tudelana: the star dish, a local vegetable stew. Every household has its own recipe, but the key is to cook each fresh vegetable separately, getting each one just right.
• Borage, pochas (fresh white beans) and cardoon: autumn and winter specialities that warm the soul after a day out walking in the Bardenas.
• And what about piquillo peppers? The Pimiento del Piquillo de Lodosa (D.O.P.) comes from Lodosa and seven other municipalities nearby, also in the Navarrese Ribera, but not from Tudela.

If you come in spring, you'll catch the Fiestas de la Verdura de Tudela, the town's vegetable festival, held between April and May (check each year's dates with Turismo Tudela).

Where to eat: recommended restaurants near the house

In Tudela (about 15 minutes by car)

In Tudela, the capital of La Ribera, vegetables take centre stage on many menus. A few places to try:

• Enriqueta by L&ele: in the old town, updated Mediterranean cooking with vegetable dishes such as artichokes, wild asparagus and delicate pimientos de cristal peppers.
• Restaurante Treintaitrés: a benchmark for vegetable cooking, known for taking artichokes and menestra to their finest expression.
• Restaurante Remigio: a long-established restaurant in the centre of Tudela, with cooking based on seasonal produce.
• El Paseo de los Poetas: traditional Navarrese and market-fresh cooking, as good for garden vegetables as for chuletón steaks and chargrilled meats.

Check opening hours and book ahead, especially at weekends, on public holidays and during vegetable season.

Pinchos around Plaza de los Fueros and Calle Herrerías

Going out for pinchos in Tudela is a must. The pedestrian area around Plaza de los Fueros and streets such as Herrerías and Mercadal are home to plenty of tapas bars where you can try everything from garlic-and-artichoke toast to creative seasonal bites.

D.O. Navarra wines and local wineries

The Ribera of Navarre is home to great red wines made from Garnacha and Cabernet, as well as its renowned fresh, fruity rosés. During your stay you can visit nearby wineries in Olite, Cascante or Corella; check with each winery for guided tours and tastings.

Your own barbecue at Casa Bardena Negra

If you'd rather have a relaxed dinner at the house, in Fustiñana and Tudela you'll find local butchers selling excellent Navarrese chistorra (a thin, paprika-cured sausage), lamb ribs and chuletón steaks.

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